Category Archives: Tasting Notes

May29

Left Field Cider

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Left Field Cider

LeftFieldCiderCanada – heck, even all of North America – has all too rarely been known for great Cider. Oregon has made the biggest dent in this void, but beyond that it’s been slim pickings.

So it’s a sight for sore eyes to see some traditional cider-making in British Columbia. And to steal their tagline, it did hit me “From Outta Nowhere.” Left Field Cider Co. is the product of the combined efforts of two sisters, Kate and Theresa, from Mamette Lake, BC (Where’s that, you may ask… it’s over there, in the middle of nowhere. But in the middle of some of the most beautiful middle of nowhere in the world, and quite conveniently between Vancouver and the Okanagan valley).

Left Field’s current availability is a duo of small batch ciders, Little Dry and Big Dry, produced from a blend of English and French cider apples and local BC apples.

I’m a cider fiend, craving everything from the orchard scrumpies of the UK and the Magners of Ireland (Where are there orchards in Ireland, anyway???) to the more cosmopolitan and world-stage ready ciders of FInland (yes, Golden Cap take a bow …oh, I forgot, you’re Finnish, never mind), and everything in between. But I digress… Anyway, very excited to see what this new Canadian cider is all about, so let’s get to the sipping.

Little Dry

Little Dry is the sweeter – or let’s be frank, less dry – of the pair. We’re worlds away from the sickly sweetness of Growers 2-liters, and in a whole different league of premium ciders. On opening, the artisanal nature of the cider says hello with a faint and pelasant touch of yeast on the nose that doesn’t linger. The apples take over – the real thing, mind you, not lab-made essences or extracts. It’s just honest juiciness that’s quite simply delicious.

Big Dry

The Big Dry is the big boy here, the drier and bolder cider. But don’t be timid, it’s all in the crispness of the apples. Big brother is actually a hair less alcoholic, and I think it’s important to point out that these ciders are both nicely balanced. There’s no heat from the alcohol despite clocking in at a couple notches above 6%. The sweetness that is more held back with Big Dry lets the rustic, barnyard-y notes through, giving it a very old world, old school feel rare in ciders these days.

To borrow a quote from Lock, Stock cinema, maybe its “Little Dry for show, Big Dry for a pro” :) But it’s not that serious at all. There’s a great continuity between big and little brother, and I wouldn’t hesitate picking up either in the countless stores this stuff is popping up in, in British Columbia. These are fantastic ciders, so refreshing when served ice cold but giving you more of that orchard on warming up a bit.

So keep these away from ice and, citrus wedged and straws, and get back to traditional cider, honest and oh so good. Great stuff, Left Field!

Also:

If you’re a cider fiend like me, head on over to cidermonger.com for more on cider.

May9

Hester Creek Barrel Selects Merlot 2011

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Hester Creek Barrel Selects Merlot 2011

HC_2011-Merlot This wine is like a old-time fairy tale of sorts, in my mind. And in a good way. Picture for yourself a forest floor of blackberries blueberries and black currants, juicy and supple forest fruit from the late summer. It’s a comforting scene in mouth and mind, but as with any old school fairy tale, there’s a darker side. Wonder what it is that goes bump in the night? It’s that beast that only wine drinkers know so well. Indeed, the oak monster lurks in the shadows. But don’t be too afraid, especially if you’re not shy about the soft vanilla and toasty notes it brings to the table – there’s a harmonious balance of oak and fruit here.

And for such a young thing, it’s mature for its age, and instantly drinkable. Tannins are smooth, the mouth feel “round” for lack of a better word, and without heat despite clocking in at a hair above 14%. Perfect pairing for your favorite red meat off the grill, but stands up well on its own as a sipper.

As a footnote of sorts, Hester Creek states that this wine is aged in specially selected barrels. I’m curious, who selects them and what’s the criteria? Are the other barrels envious? And did the selector of barrels at any time stop and mutter to themselves “these are not the barrels you are looking for”? Let me mull on these with another glass.

Apr8

Church and State Coyote Bowl Meritage 2008

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Church and State Coyote Bowl Meritage 2008

We recently had a chance to taste the 2008 Coyote Bowl Meritage from Church and State, a winery in the Okanagan Valley, in British Columbia, Canada. I didn’t know much about the winery going in, and if you don’t either, here’s the dirty:

In the Okanagan Valley, Church and State farms 60 acres on estate land, mainly on the Black Sage Bench, and a further 30 acres through our partnerships with growers in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. They also have 11 acres of planted grapes on the Saanich Peninsula. Nestled in the Coyote Bowl Vineyard, the winery of the same name offers splendid views of the valley and graceful concrete and beam architecture.

And here’s what we found out about what’s in the bottle after some swirling, sipping, and such:

Church and State 2008 Meritage

Church and State 2008 Coyote Bowl Meritage (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot blessed by the Meritage Alliance).

Developing complexity for what is still a young wine, the berry-dominant fruit plays nicely off the well-integrated oak, supported by smooth tannins. There’s a pleasant complexity here, with hints of hebality and smokiness.

According to the winery, “the fruit for this wine, sourced from different vineyards in Oliver and Osoyoos, was picked in late October, 2008. The juice was fermented in stainless tanks and transferred to French Oak Barrels – 20% new oak – where it was matured for 31 months before being bottled.”

Production was ramped up significantly from the 07 vintage, from 550 cases to over 1500 cases in 08.

The wine is not without critical merit, having won Gold at the 2012 New World International Wine Competition and another Gold at the 2012 All-Canadian Wine Championships.

Feb4

A Canadian Foursome

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A Canadian Foursome

There’s nothing like a quartet of Canadian wine to pass the weekend. This time we were tasked with west coast wine from the Okanagan Valley in that best of natural playgrounds, British Columbia.

Let’s see what the

The 2010 Noble Ridge Meritage, a blend of predominantly Merlot grapes with some Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French and American oak barrels, is a friendly and fruit-forward with a little spicy kick. Berries abound, driven first and foremost by blackberries. Built to please, this one’s a crowd pleaser.

About Noble Ridge: Jim and Leslie D’Andrea began the Noble Ridge winery in 2001. When they purchased the property it had only 3.5 acre of vines. Since then they have planted an additional 18 acres. Tending to vineyards and making the wines is all done by hand.

The 2010 Sonoran Estate Winery Jazz Series Riesling Gewrurztraminer, is a crisp blend with an aromatic component to please any Gewurz lover. Green apples and stone fruit, and a hint of citrus. Great balance! And do I have a daring pairing for you with this one – roasted kale chips. It surprised me how well the roasted kale and this wine go together, but there was a harmony in my mouth that was pretty damn astounding!

About Sonoran Estate: “Immigrants from Holland in 1982, the Smits family were Fraser Valley flower growers until moving in 2000 to a Summerland orchard set on a dramatic slope overlooking Lake Okanagan. After opening a highway-side bed and breakfast, the Smits replaced the fruit trees with vines, opening a winery with the first fruit from the vineyard. The varieties grown include merlot, pinot noir, chardonnay, gewürztraminer, riesling, ehrenfelser and pinot blanc. In 2007, the family moved from the original Sonoran winery, which had difficult highway access, to a high-traffic site on the wine route in Summerland. Beginning with the 2005 vintage, Sonoran now releases its premium wines under the 13 Moons label. Inspired by the lunar cycles, the label also signals a commitment to biodynamic practices.” — BC Wine.com

2009 Dunham Froese MDC, a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Zinfandel, and 25% Syrah, is about as approachable as wine can get. Silky smooth, with the softness of a cool blueberry pie. A great solo joy, it doesn’t need food to make it memorable. The wine is a tribute to Dunham Froese proprietor Gene Covert’s late father, who was an avid Cab drinker.

About Dunham Froese: Dunham Froese, now known as Covert Farms, was founded in 2005 together by the Covert and and Froese families. Those wines from the early years were well received and the winery was named “Best New Winery to Watch for” in 2008 by the Okanagan Wine Festival Society. In 2011, the Covert family assumed full ownership.

2011 Platinum Bench Chardonnay, the inaugural release of this wine. It’s got even oaky backbone to make us know it means business, but without taking away that citrusy zing. MIngling iwth that citrus are crisp Granny Smith apples and a melony softness. Very refreshing on the finish. We previously wrote about Platinum Bench’s 2011 Gamay Noir and Pinot Gris, which we were fans of, so it’s very interesting to find another potent weapon in their vinous arsenal. These folks have sure come out swinging. Production is only 350 cases.

About Platinum Bench Estate Winery: We truly don’t know much yet about the Platinum crew. They’ve barely gotten here, and they’re winning awards and storming palates. The Oliver, BC winery was established in 2012 by Fiona Duncan and Murray Jones. And there’s a dog named Wally. What more is there to know?

And that’s all folks. Truly, it is.

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For more on wines from the Okanagan valley, this is the best book I know.

Jan10

M. Chapoutier Les Vignes De Bila-Haut Cotes Du Roussillon Villages 2010

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M. Chapoutier Les Vignes De Bila-Haut Cotes Du Roussillon Villages 2010

Thanks go out to Wine Chateau, a family-owned online and bricks & mortar wine retailer based in New Jersey, who provided us with a sample of this wine.

Bila-Haut, composed of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, is a wine grown in the Roussillon commune of Latour-de-France. The plots where this wine hails are located on the slopes of the high Agly Valley, composed of gneiss and schist from the Devonian Period.

In the glass, it’s a deep, dense garnet. So let’s take it for a whirl.

On the nose, there are black currants, raspberry, spices, figs and chocolate. much of the same carrier through to the palate: the dark berries, a hint of chocolate, and coffee notes. This wine has lovely balance. Medium tannins and a comfortable load of fruit, the 2010 is not at all heavy. The alcohol clocks in at a solid 14% but it’s a smooth fourteen, without any burn.

It also provides great value, and looks like a good value – maybe even too good as Wine Chateau looks to be completely sold out at the moment.

About M. Chapoutier:

M. Chapoutier has a two hundred year old history in the Rhone Valley, and is now also in the Roussillon. Chapoutier’s own vineyards and the vineyards they source from are either organically or biodynamically cultivated.

Nov30

A Tale of Two Merlots

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A Tale of Two Merlots

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In one hand, I have an unoaked Merlot from the cold climes of Canada, and in the other a legendary Merlot from Napa’s Stag’s Leap District.

The unoaked one, the Saxon Winery 2011 Merlot from the Okanagan Valley, is playful as a Mini Cooper on a sunny summer Sunday while the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2006 Merlot has all the pedigree and muscle of a classic ’67 Ford Mustang, you know, from that time before Ford got it all oh-so-wrong.

But enough chit chat, let’s take them for a spin.

Saxon Winery 2011 Merlot

Saxon Winery, in Summerland, British Columbia, is situated in the Okanagan Valley, an area known for stunning cool-climate Germanic grapes. Saxon’s wines are organically grown and hand-harvested using environmentally sustainable practices.

The ’11 Merlot, blended by winemaker Danny Hatting, has a splash of Pinot Noir thrown in with Naramata bench Merlot grapes, and has not even had a whiff of oak. The result is a fresh, lively wine.

It has a generous nose of raspberries and chocolate, and perfumy aromas that brings to mind a gourmet Big Turk chocolate bar, one of my favorite childhood treats. It’s rare for wine to remind a person of his childhood treats, and this gives the Saxon Merlot a special place for me.

It’s light on the palate, and a truly intriguing wine experience – red berries, chocolate and subtle pepper.

It’s all well and good on its own, and though it doesn’t have the oomph of an aged and oaked Merlot, it can also be paired with meat dishes for the holidays.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2006 Merlot

Everyone who knows wine knows Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, one of California’s earliest wine estates established by Warren Winiarski in 1970, and based in the Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap District. Famed for its victory at the 1976 Judgment of Paris, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has risen over the years to be a legendary institution in American wine.

This 2006 Merlot is from our own cellar, acquired on a trip to Napa two years ago, and it was a good time to uncork it.

But even as it stood there, still corked and brought upright to settle any sediment, it’s impressive. Just look at the bottle. It stands there with might and presence, as if knowing that what’s about to go down your throat may just very well change your life a little bit with every sip.

And then, with a pop, some breathing room, and a couple pours, we go for broke…

The nose is wonderfully complex, with aromas of black cherry, black berries, cedar.

On the palate, black plum, licorice and vanilla notes from fabulously integrated oak. The tannins are definitely there, firm and strong but graceful. The long finish brings dark chocolate and ripe blackberries.

Six years on, it’s still feeling young and has several years on it.

As far as pairings go, there’s no red meat that this graceful beast couldn’t go with, but that’s just me talking.

Both of these wine impressed, and have their own places and purposes, much the same way a fun car like a Mini Cooper and a muscle-bound V8 Mustang do. So pick wisely, and enjoy :)

Nov19

Schild Estate 2010 Barossa Shiraz

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Schild Estate 2010 Barossa Shiraz

PersonalWine.com

The Schild Estate Barossa Shiraz 2010 from winemakers Scott Hazeldine and Alex MacClelland is from multiple vineyards in and around the towns of Lyndoch and Rowland Flat in the Barossa Valley, near the Barossa ranges on the eastern side of the valley.

The 2010 growing season that began with more heat than usual. Otherwise, the the warm sunny days and cool nights provided optional conditions.

In the glass, the Shiraz is a dark ruby red.

On the nose, with some time to breath, there are ripe cherries and spices that bring a sense of warmth to them. There’s also a subtle pepper component. The nose immediately upon opening the bottle was a tad funky, but this dissipates very quickly and there’s complexity and change, which is intriguing for the wine geek in any of us

On the palate, the ripe berry fruit is soft supported by the toastiness of well-integrated oak that in no way steals the show. The secret with this wine is the sweet spot. It needs some time to breath, but too much and those spicy notes give way to the ripe fruit that begins to dominate and continues to soften.

In the US, Costco offers this wine for a very good deal, and in general the QPR is approppriate.

A little history nugget about winemaking in the Barossa valley:

“Unlike most of Australia whose wine industry was heavily influenced by the British, the wine industry of the Barossa Valley was founded by German settlers fleeing persecution from the Prussian province of Silesia (in what is now modern day Poland).” Not surprisingly, “the early focus of the Barossa wine industry was on the production of Riesling.”

Nov13

Wither Hills 2008 Pinot Noir and Three Pairings

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Wither Hills 2008 Pinot Noir and Three Pairings

Wither Hills 2008 Pinot Noir is – to the critically-minded sip ‘n’ spit – a fine example of New World Pinot Noir, more concentrated than its old world brethren, more fruit-forward yet maintaining a finesse and lightness of foot and that signature racy acidity.

What takes the 08 Wither Hills to another level is one of the pairings to follow. Something that shouldn’t have been there, but landed on my palate like a fairytale freight train of magic and make believe. Disneyfied, you say? How about “Pinofied”!

We paired the Pinot with three very different foods – not all of them expected to perform to perfeciton, but to test the pairings. And the reactions.

First came the guacamole and tortilla chips, that staple of Tex Mex appies. Avocado works well with the citrus acids of limes, but when you’ve got all that mixed up to make some creamy, green goodness, a racy Pinot Noir like Wither Hills screams in the mouth. The guacamole brings out the pucker like a motherf— oh, never mind.

Up next was the grilled steak. The elegant and silky juice was no match for the brute force of a slab of red meat, but played along nicely in a second fiddle sort of way, not clashing with the harmony but on the inside, yearning to be… well, first fiddle, or at least equal parts in a menage-a-fiddles.

Third at the plate (literally) was a forest mushroom medley sauteed in cream sauce. It should be said that traditionally Pinot Noirs pair well with forest floor fungi, but what hit me was unexpected, a rush of toasty, chocolaty mocha that caffeinated sweet dreams are made of. And it lingered with such a long and silky finish that I was left stunned. I have seriously never experienced such an interesting result as Mushrooms + cream + Pinot Noir = mocha. This must be the Pinosity they talk about at Wither Hills. The magical moment a kid must feel meeting Mickey. Truly a magic moment.

 

About Wither Hills

Established in 1994, Wither Hills is named after the imposing Wither Hills ranges, a dramatic backdrop to their vineyards. The operation is located in the Wairau valley. This is in Marlborough, at the northeast tip of the South Island of New Zealand, and is the largest winemaking region, with around 110 wineries and over 12,000 hectares planted in grapes. The region produces about 79% of New Zealand’s's wine output.

Wither Hills 2008 Pinot Noir is from fruit from the Taylor River (directly behind the Wither Hills winery) and Benmorven (a 100% clay site tucked into the foothills of the Wither Hills range) vineyards.

Nov6

Treveri Brut: A Toast to Obama

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Treveri Brut: A Toast to Obama

It’s Election Day and America’s off to the poles. We, on the other hand, tasted Treveri “Blanc de Blanc” Brut from Treveri Cellars, a bubbly that all holiday state department dinners at the White House have recently been serving. It is the first time, supposedly, that the White House has poured a non-California sparkling wine, since they began serving domestic bubbly.

Onto our notes:

A lovely light gold in the glass with even bubbles. The nose is peculiarly yeasty, and not at all cluing us into the amazing burst on the palate of lemon peel and limes, peaches and apricots. On the lingering finish, the limes sweep everything else aside. The acids are spot on to keep the fruit in check, creating a nicely balanced bubbly.

It’s interesting to see what is good enough for the White House, and we can see the love. The Treveri Brut - made in the traditional method used in Champagne – is a solid sparkling wine that is neither too conservative in its bubbles not too liberal with the fruit. A surefire crowd-pleaser for all manners of palates. It’s also very fairly priced at 14 dollars.

About Treveri Cellars:

The name “Treveri” comes from the historic name of the city of Trier, Germany, home of Treveri’s winemaker Jurgen Grieb. Treveri Cellars is a family-owned sparkling wine house that opened its doors on November 2010. Producing a wide array of sparkling wines, including non-traditional varieties such as Riesling and Mueller-Thurgau, Treveri largely focuses on 100% varietal sparkling wines. Treveri currently produces 5,000 cases of wine annually.

Nov5

New Releases from BC VQA Wines

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New Releases from BC VQA Wines

New releases of British Columbia VQA wines are being rolled out, and we had the chance to taste a few. Among the wines, there are several whites form the 2011 vintage, which was a challenge as the growing season was late from beginning to end. There was the second lowest number of growing degree days (more on that here) since serious wine was made in British Columbia. In other words, it was a very cool year.

Saxon 2011 Gewurztraminer – Light straw in the glass. Passion fruit so genuine there’s the same prickliness as when easting a passion fruit, rose petals, lychee. Juicy minerality.

All in all, a more discreet Gewurz on the drier side of middle – I mean, who needs all that perfume anyway? Saxon dubs it a “priot sipper”and who are we to argue, but I’d also be ready and willing to tuck into some curry with this Gewurz.

Joie Farm 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (10 months in oak) – Light gold in the glass. On the nose, mango, tangerine, white spring blossoms, apricot, and ginger of the ale variety. Smooth on the palate, with mango, tangerine, butterscotch, apricots and peaches, and ginger. This one’s young, so let it breathe so coax out the best.

Joie Farm’s 2010 Reserve Chardonnay was a bronze medalist at the All Canadian Wine Championship in 2012.

Laughing Stock 2011 Pinot Gris – A shy nose of pears, but a lemon-lime peel ‘n’ pulp party in the mouth. Nice dose of acidity.

Laughing Stock added a new winemaking tool to their fermentation of the 2011 Pinot Gris. If addition to having 53% of the juice in French oak barrels and 39% in stainless steel, 8% was in concrete eggs.

Young & Wyse 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon – Opaque ruby in the glass. Baking spices, a smooth infiltration of oak that delivers toasty and vanilla notes. Sweet blackberries, black currants and black cherries. Chewy tannins. Juicy mouth feel. Bottled without fining or filtration.

Stephen Wyse was at Burrowing Owl for 10 years before departing to run his own family winery. He was a big part of Burrowing Owl’s success, so it’s no surprise he’s succeeding on so many levels at Y&W. The 2010 Cab Sauv, which won a Silver Medal at the 2012 All Canadian Wine Championships, is a fine example of this.

Tinhorn Creek 2009 Merlot – On the nose, jammy raspberry, cedar, plums and vanilla. On the palate, much of the same raspberry, plum and cedar. Pleasant acidity, and well integrated tannins.

Stag’s Hollow 2011 Simply Noir (Gamay, Pinot Noir, Merlot) – Reminiscent of a Beaujelais Villages style. Fruit-forward with sugar plums, banana peel. Such a great choice if you want to go red with whatever fowl you’re preparing.

Note: The Quinta Ferreira 2011 Chardonnay was suffering from bottle shock, so we are unable to provide tasting notes on it at this time.