A Brief History of Merlot

A Brief History of Merlot

Happy New Year everyone! Hope you have a great 2013 in and out of wine.

2012 was fabulous. We had a chance to taste some great great wines, and there’s only one corked bottle among the bunch that comes to mind, which is a Dionysian blessing itself. Great new connections were made, and can’t wait to keep spreading these here Wineshout wings in 2013.

One of my favorite things from 2012 was a video that won the Wine Spectator video contest last year. It’s called “A Brief History of Merlot” and was made by the folks at Gundlach Bundschu, the oldest family owned winery in California.

Can’t embed it here, so we’ll link you up. Hop on over to http://www.winespectator.com/video/index/playerid/609848879001 for your viewing enjoyment!

Three Wine Books for Christmas

Three Wine Books for Christmas

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With all the new books that have come out in 2012, I wanted to take a look down memory lane and remind us all of the books of Christmases past. This is a trio of wine books that are about the stories than they are about facts, numbers, and data. They are books that will make you fall a little bit more in love with wine, and that’s important. You’ll always have time to learn about the next new wine region or that grape you just can’t pronounce, but snuggling up by the fire over the holidays calls for a good story.

At the top of the list is Kermit Lynch’s Adventures on the Wine Route: A Wine Buyer’s Tour of France. This “recounting of his experiences on the wine route and in the wine cellars of France through the Loire, Bordeaux, the Languedoc, Provence, Northern and Southern Rhone, and the Cote d’Oris inspiring and returns my faith in vino-sapiens (as Cuvee Corner’s Bill Eye calls use). This is a delightful read that I can go back to year after year, and perfect for any wine lover.

This is a book I’m reading right now, Wine and War: The French, the Nazis, and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure. A great narrative and insight into a monumental piece of micro-history in French winemaking. More for the history buffs among us.

Reflections of a Wine Merchant rounds out this trio. In it, Neal Rosenthal (the wine merchant the title suggests) tells stories about his travels through the cellars, vineyards, and homes of French vignerons. Though it lacks the emotional resonance of Lynch’s book, I found it thoroughly pulled me in.

These books have brought boat loads of joy and cheer to dreary commutes and quiet days in between the sips and swirls that mark our wine lives, and I hope you will enjoy them too. Wishing you all happy holidays!

Tor Di Vento Barolo D.O.C.G 2008

Tor Di Vento Barolo D.O.C.G 2008

The Tor di Vento Barolo DOCG 2008, from Nebbiolo grapes, comes from Terre da Vino in the Langhe region of Italy (although Terre da Vino no longer has the Tor di Vento on their website, so it has either been rebranded or something to that effect).

For a barolo, the Tor di Vento is surprisingly light in the glass.

On opening, a tight nose of sour cherries and maybe even cranberries, with some heat from alcohol.

Light on the palate. The sour berries follow through from the nose, and old-world earthiness.

There is a lively acidity almost reminiscent of a classic Pinot Noir. Tannins are moderate, and there’s a medium finish.

The Tor di Vento opens up slowly, with the heat cooling off and the fruitiness becoming more pronounced. It remains on the shy side, though with decanting, this wine goes from good to great, so make sure not to rush this one.

Like so many Italian wines, the Tor di Vento is a food lover. Spit-roasted chicken or a creamy pasta would go well.

At under 20 bucks at Wine Chateau, this Barolo has bang for the buck.

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Here’s some recommended reading on the wines and wine regions of Italy.

Robert Parker steps down as Wine Advocate editor-in-chief

Robert Parker steps down as Wine Advocate editor-in-chief

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The news bombshell this morning is all about Robert Parker. Lettie Teague, in the Wall Street Journal, reported that Parker is stepping down as editor-in-chief of Wine Advocate, and the operations of his 35-year old wine newsletter will effectively shift to Singapore, closer to the three as of yet unnamed investors who Parker has dubbed “young innovators” and who have acquired a “substantial interest” in Parker’s company. Lisa Perrotti-Brown steps in as editor-in-chief of the publication that will for the first time begin accepting advertisements, and will go electronic despite the fact that the printed publication is profitable.

Since then, Decanter, Felix Salmon, The Drinks Business, Wines.com and seemingly every other wine media outlet, blogger and tweeter have weighed in on the news, and with reason. This is most definitely one of the most shocking pieces of news this year in wine as Parker has been fiercely independent, and has in the past snubbed the likes of Decanter for accepting ads.

So will Parker retire? What will happen to the legacy he has protected the past 35 years? Would love to hear your take on the news. What are your thoughts?

Friday Faves: Cuvee Corner

Friday Faves: Cuvee Corner

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Friday Faves is a weekly look at wine writers. We hope to introduce you to some great writing about wine, and we also get the writers to share one “favorite thing” that they are now, or forever, excited about in wine.

The Cuvee Corner wine blog is in this week’s spotlight. So let the light shine!I I asked Bill Eyer, the man behind the blog, about the focus of his site.

“The focus (or as I like to call its mission is three fold really. One, get vino-sapiens to think outside of the box and I’m not just talking about the wine-box, explore new wines and new wine styles to boldly take their palate where no vino-sapien has gone before [ha]. Secondly, I would say that for my 2 or 3 readers, the encouragement to actually explore these regions for themselves, to get up and personal with the winemakers and the areas where these wines are grown and ultimately produced. And three, I want to help readers to understand, that while you can pay more, you won’t always get more. Especially when they have arrived at “The intersection of where great wine meets reasonable prices”.

Bill’s being a tad humble above. He has over 9000 followers on Twitter, and if you want to follow his wine musings in 140 characters or less, check out Cuvee Corver on Twitter.

What got you interested in wine and wine writing?

“I really didn’t get interested in wine until I met the woman who became my wife. She is known to my readers as the lovely and fetching Mrs. Cuvee, whose opinions I sometimes include in my wine reviews. She and I took a trip to the Napa Valley back before we were married; I was only a beer drinker back then, mostly pedestrian stuff too. We went to a winery called V. Sattui in the Napa Valley, the owner himself poured his wines for us that day and then we went to Opus One later in the afternoon. After these experiences I was hooked and never looked back. So I got interested in posting my notes [such as they are] electronically to the internet via a blog, instead of writing the notes in a journal, where I’d scrape off labels and scribble down my thoughts.”

So being the investigate wine journo that I am, I had to ask Bill the hard line question, “What is your favorite thing in wine right now?”:

“I know this will sound like a bunch of introspective schlock, But honestly for me personally, I have to say palate progression is one the most remarkable things that can happen to any vino-sapien, building that palate muscle [via exploration], while completely embracing, recognizing and welcoming it’s part of the journey. As you push yourself to reach out beyond the bounds of what is known, stretching yourself, you can start to see patterns, you start to recognize styles and types of wine by region. Leaving you with the desire to know there’s far more to wine, than what’s just in the bottle. Wine has become for me; like the unfolding a flower and has grown like the butterfly from the cocoon. If you ever can say the thrill is gone, than maybe you veered too far from the path.”

And on a lighter note after all this grilling, like any self-respecting wine news man-person, I ask “what kind of wine are you, Bill?”:

Hmm, so what kind of wine am I? Ha, that is a good question. I have not thought about that too often, but I would have to say I’m more like a fine Barolo then anything else. I’m not a taste which is easily understood or appreciated, especially if I’ve been uncorked too soon. Like a young Barolo, I can be tight, tannic and quite unapproachable soon after having been bottle, but given some time [years] in the cellar and properly decanted, the experience will be far more palatable and richly rewarding for those who are patient.

It’s always fun learning how people learn to love wine, and take the time to share their experiences with the rest of us. So why not hop on over to Bill’s site, Cuvee Corner wine blog, and see what’s new.

A Tale of Two Merlots

A Tale of Two Merlots

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In one hand, I have an unoaked Merlot from the cold climes of Canada, and in the other a legendary Merlot from Napa’s Stag’s Leap District.

The unoaked one, the Saxon Winery 2011 Merlot from the Okanagan Valley, is playful as a Mini Cooper on a sunny summer Sunday while the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2006 Merlot has all the pedigree and muscle of a classic ’67 Ford Mustang, you know, from that time before Ford got it all oh-so-wrong.

But enough chit chat, let’s take them for a spin.

Saxon Winery 2011 Merlot

Saxon Winery, in Summerland, British Columbia, is situated in the Okanagan Valley, an area known for stunning cool-climate Germanic grapes. Saxon’s wines are organically grown and hand-harvested using environmentally sustainable practices.

The ’11 Merlot, blended by winemaker Danny Hatting, has a splash of Pinot Noir thrown in with Naramata bench Merlot grapes, and has not even had a whiff of oak. The result is a fresh, lively wine.

It has a generous nose of raspberries and chocolate, and perfumy aromas that brings to mind a gourmet Big Turk chocolate bar, one of my favorite childhood treats. It’s rare for wine to remind a person of his childhood treats, and this gives the Saxon Merlot a special place for me.

It’s light on the palate, and a truly intriguing wine experience – red berries, chocolate and subtle pepper.

It’s all well and good on its own, and though it doesn’t have the oomph of an aged and oaked Merlot, it can also be paired with meat dishes for the holidays.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2006 Merlot

Everyone who knows wine knows Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, one of California’s earliest wine estates established by Warren Winiarski in 1970, and based in the Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap District. Famed for its victory at the 1976 Judgment of Paris, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has risen over the years to be a legendary institution in American wine.

This 2006 Merlot is from our own cellar, acquired on a trip to Napa two years ago, and it was a good time to uncork it.

But even as it stood there, still corked and brought upright to settle any sediment, it’s impressive. Just look at the bottle. It stands there with might and presence, as if knowing that what’s about to go down your throat may just very well change your life a little bit with every sip.

And then, with a pop, some breathing room, and a couple pours, we go for broke…

The nose is wonderfully complex, with aromas of black cherry, black berries, cedar.

On the palate, black plum, licorice and vanilla notes from fabulously integrated oak. The tannins are definitely there, firm and strong but graceful. The long finish brings dark chocolate and ripe blackberries.

Six years on, it’s still feeling young and has several years on it.

As far as pairings go, there’s no red meat that this graceful beast couldn’t go with, but that’s just me talking.

Both of these wine impressed, and have their own places and purposes, much the same way a fun car like a Mini Cooper and a muscle-bound V8 Mustang do. So pick wisely, and enjoy :)

Friday Faves: 2001 Bottles

Friday Faves: 2001 Bottles

Friday Faves is a weekly look at wine writers. We hope to introduce you to some great writing about wine, and we also get the writers to share one “favorite thing” that they are now, or forever, excited about in wine.

With the 2001 Bottles – A Wine Odyssey blog, the goal is to write about a journey of drinking and tasting 2001 unique bottles of wine – all the time keeping track of the wines, the locations where they were sipped, the friends the bottles were shared with, and the good times that were had.

I recently talked with Bob Halifax, one of the guys behind 2001 Bottles. When not blogging and waiting out the NHL lockout (Yes, Bob is Canadian and that is a big pain in the land of the maple leaf right now), he admitted to being addicted to the great wine conversations on Twitter. If you want to get in touch with Bob and discuss wine from British Columbia, Canada, and beyond, tweet him at @2001Bottles.

When I asked him about a favorite thing in wine right now, he told me that’s “kinda like asking a wine geek what they’re
favorite wine is”. Guilty as charged! And though there is no easy answer, Bob mentioned he is currently reading Benjamin Wallace’s The Billionaire’s Vinegar: The Mystery of the World’s Most Expensive Bottle of Wine.

Rancho Zabaco Sonoma Heritage Vines Zinfandel 2010

Rancho Zabaco Sonoma Heritage Vines Zinfandel 2010

Our friends at Wine Chateau sent us a sample of this wine, and by the time it arrived at our door, the folks at Wine Chateau and in the rest of New Jersey had a nasty arrival at their doorstep in Superstorm Sandy. By the time of this writing, it’s good to hear that things are much better over there.

The Rancho Zabaco Sonoma Heritage Vines Zinfandel 2010 (93% Zinfandel, 7% Petite Sirah) was sourced from grapes all over Sonoma in a 2010 growing season that, in Sonoma County, was considered by many the most challenging in generations. It started with record-breaking low temperatures in the spring, late bud break, and 20 days of rain in May (double the historic average). Yields were down, and cool climate varietals fared the best. Despite this, winemaker Eric Cinnamon has nurtured a big, bold Zinfandel.

On the nose, the 2010 Heritage Vines Zinfandel is immediately generous on opening. Zin’s familiar ripe, jammy blackberry is supported by hints of blueberry jam. Licorice notes develop more gradually.

The ripe berry fruit continues through onto the palate, reminding me of what they call in Scandinavia queen jam (a mixture of raspberry and blueberry), licorice, and very subtle hints of toasty oak. Timid palates beware, this Zin packs some heat that at 14.9% alcohol shouldn’t sneak up on anyone.

The overall impression is a big, bold – almost decadent – Zin, and I’d say a classic take on the grape that has become a poster boy for the new world trend towards big wines. It pairs well with rich holiday meals with the plate stacked high with turkey and fixings.

At just under 13 bucks at Wine Chateau, this Zin also has bang for the buck.

About Rancho Zabaco:

The Rancho Zabaco brand is owned by EJ Gallo, the name is derived from Tzabaco Rancho, a historic Mexican land grant, though the brand has no apparent link to this history beyond location. The only red wine winemaker Eric Cinnamon’s team makes is Zinfandel. The winery is located in Modesto, California and was founded in 2001.