Monthly Archives: October 2012

Oct31

Revenge of the Oak Monster

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Revenge of the Oak Monster

Remember when those two creepy twins in your neighborhood would skip rope and chant “One, two, the oak monster’s coming for you, three, four, better lock your cellar door…?” No? Well, listen up anyway. Cue ominous voice…

Winemakers of days gone by knew something we have forgotten. Something we should never forget. To not play with oak. To respect it. Even fear it. For there lurks a monster as old as wine itself.

So why did we forget? Maybe recent years have been kind to us, the wave upon wave of terroirists and millennials storming the blasphemed halls of the Overoaked One. Now, all but the Bordelais – and those wacky country clubbing Cali cult cab cults – have stopped kneeling at the its altar. Even the mind of Dr. Vino-stein has marveled at the possible death of the oaken beast at the hands of a poison economy. The oak monster is dead. Parkerized and buried deep within the recesses of an ancient Maryland lair.

But it’s name has been uttered again. An innocent enough article in defense of oak by one wine dude,  – yes, that wine dude – who with cojones only The Dude can muster, daring it so close to all hallow’s eve. But it would have dire consequences as the beast fed on it, the ensuing chatter in the Twitter void unknowingly opening a portal into its dark dimension of vanilla nightmares and caramel screams.

And on this all halloween night, it’s blood spilling on house party rugs across the land, its splinters impaling your palates, fruit bomb-soaked two-by-fours slithering up million dollar noses, it is unleashed.

Is that the barrique of fear I smell on you? Where can you turn? Who will help you? The Vayniac legions and their fearless leader Garyvee – who legend has it dared dance with the monster – have long since disbanded. The Rhone Rangers, neutral to your battle, watch on like elders of yore. You are your only hope. But no holy crosses or garlic here. Just a balance of acid in one hand and a fistful of vegetal notes in the other, and get ready to rumble. And like my ma always said “In for a palate fight, you gotta aerate right”, because when the oak monster comes a-knocking, it’s gonna get awful toasty in here.

Don’t say you haven’t been warned!

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Happy Halloween!

Oct30

Rhone-style Whites

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Rhone-style Whites

The most recent media tasting at the HQ of Le Vieux Pin and La Stella sister wineries afforded a terrific chance to taste and compare a slew of Rhone-style whites from new world and old. The wines ran the gamut from the unctuous to the withdrawn, audacious to elegant.

White Rhone-style blends consist of two or more white grapes, principally including Viognier, Rousanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc, and other white grapes may also be included. In the Rhone, Viognier typically flies solo in the Northern Rhone and absent in the Southern Rhone. Marsanne and Roussanne are usually found together both in and outside of the Rhone region. Outside the Rhone, blends mostly come from California and Australia, but in today’s lineup, there are also several solid versions from Canada.

Alrighty then, let’s put on our Rhone Ranger masks and get on with this showdown:

First up was Moon Curser’s 2010 Afraid of the Dark – Honeysuckle, crisp white nectarine, formidable acidity. We covered this wine more than a year ago, so it’s interesting to come back to the same vintage after such a break. Interesting to note that in the 2011 version of the Afraid of the Dark, Chardonnay takes over for Viognier.

E. Guigal 2009 La Doriane Condrieu (100% Viognier) – Entrancing spice and musk on the nose. Deceptively light mouth feel. On the palate, the musk follows through. Also a hint of peaches and toasty caramel. A complex wine to ponder with time.

Black Hills 2010 Viognier – A waxy, rounded nose… (okay, I know that description got a little too Madame Tussaud’s, but I’ll try to gather myself and bring this one in). Crisp stone fruit from the early summer, a fair bit of the old acidity. A hint of bitter almonds on the finish.

Laughing Stock 2011 Viognier – A discreet nose of apricots and orange peel. Citrus dominates on the palate. Medium acidity, and balance. A long, light and pleasant finish. This is Laughing Stock’s third Viognier vintage and from their Perfect Hedge Vineyard in Osoyoos, in the Okanagan valley.

Treana 2008 Central Coast (55% Marsanne, 45% Viognier) – Sweet, overripe fruit dominated by stewed apricots. oily, unctuous. This is not my style of wine, but I can see some of you out there really enjoying the Treana.

Le Vieux Pin 2010 Ava (Viognier/Roussanne/Marsanne) – Honeysuckle, tropical fruit, a touch of lemongrass. Balanced, the acidity is spot on to balance out the fruit. A more subtle, shier cousin to the ’11 Ava, it’s got the same genes but not as much coaxed out of it than it’s younger cousin. Only 250+ cases were produced and it’s now sold out, so turn to the ’11 to get your fix.

Le Vieux Pin 2011 Ava – A gorgeous nose of sweet honeysuckle. On the palate, there’s honey-dipped stone fruit. Gentle acidity. The finish is long and brings back hints of the sweetness from the nose. The ’11 Ava takes over where the ’10 left off, and raises Ava’s game to a whole new level while maintaining a backbone of continuity of style. There’s an air of classical refinement to the ’11 Ava that conjures up an Marie Antoinette’s fairy tale France unburdened by reality.

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Oct29

Mini Reviews: JM Cellars

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Mini Reviews: JM Cellars

JM Cellars is one a hidden slice of serenity tucked away in a pocket of Woodinville just a stone’s throw from the bustle of Seattle. It’s a place to unwind while you take your palate for a whirl. The grounds are tranquil and the tasting room subdued and inviting with its warm tones and even warmer people.

So what did we taste?

JM Cellars 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Yakima valley) – Clean, crisp but sufficient fruitiness. Pears, yellow Golden Delicious apples that, like Macintoshes, are going out of style but of so delish.

JM Cellars 2008 Tre Franciulli (Columbia Valley) (53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 14% Syrah) – Licorice nose underlined by blackberry, very elegant, violets. Extremely smooth, complex finish with peppery prickles.

JM Cellars 2008 Longevity (Columbia Valley) – Silky nose of dark fruit, cherries & hint of licorice. Powerful tannins. Long finish.

JM Cellars 2008 Red Mountain Cab Sauv – Peppery ‘n’ powerful, meaty, gamy, a hero of a finish that rides off into the sunset.

JM Cellars are onto a very good thing, and their winery is a must visit for anyone in the area. And if you don’t believe me, this is what Robert Parker had to say:

“John and Peggy Bigelow’s JM Cellars is a required visit for wine tourists in the Seattle/Woodinville area. The winery’s landscaping is breath-taking and, most important, the wines are first-class and reasonably priced.”

Oct26

A Heavenly Vintage

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A Heavenly Vintage

A Heavenly Vintage is the story of a young winemaker who rises to prominence through the unlikely guidance of a mysterious angel. His talents make him the object of desire of a beautiful baroness who tempts him to stray from his loving wife and children.

This is a movie for wine geeks. The director Nki Caro (Whale Rider) dwells on the minutiae of the vineyard, and draws on the history of winemaking and vineyard operations in 19th century.

Though overly romanticized at times, and with a disjointed storyline (this could have been a fine movie without the angel), there are some great moments and remarkable attention to detail in that in the wardrobe and production design.

Vera Farmiga is solid as the Baroness, but Jeremie Renier as the all-too-often angry lead can be hard to root for, but for all its wine geekiness, scenes in the French winegrowing countryside, and with a little wine in your glass, you’re in for a good evening watching a man attempt to create the perfect vintage. That in itself is worth it for a wine lover.

A paired my viewing with a rustic and leathery Summerhill Pyramid Winery Baco Noir from the 2009 vintage.

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Oct25

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Baco Noir 2009

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Summerhill Pyramid Winery Baco Noir 2009

The ’09 Summerhill Pyramid Winery Baco Noir (13.5% alc.) comes from organic and transitional grapes from the Okanagan valley in British Columbia, Canada.

It is almost opaque ruby color, typical for Baco Noirs. Initially tight on opening, aromas of leather, something on the sweeter side of a cigar box, spices, and a vague hint of liquorice root developed. In the mouth, there is the acidic tartness of swamp cranberries, and black berries.

This Baco Noir took a while to open up so take your time getting to know it. The notes that develop are well worth it.

It pairs well with game, lamb, or a rack of ribs with good ol’ barbecue sauce. I can also tell you what it definitely does not pair with: tomato sauce based pasta dish. The acidity of the tomatoes clashed with the tartness of the Baco Noir, and made it harsh. This was a pairing gone wrong, and one I’ll put down to experience in the live and learn category. Baco Noir is an acidic red wine, so pair with that in mind.

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For more on wines from the Okanagan valley, this is the best book I know.

Oct23

Folonari Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2009

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Folonari Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2009

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The Folonari Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2009, is a blend of Merlot and Sangiovese from Veneto, one of the foremost wine-producing regions in Italy, both for quality and quantity.

The Folonari is medium bodied with a ruby complexion. I didn’t get a sense of the dry fruit – slash – raisin aromas that some have touted, but there was a discreet spiciness, plump cherries, and a soft touch of oak that compliments rather than dominates. The finish is on the shorter side. A nicely balanced wine with an old-world sensibility.

Pricewise, the Folonari offers great value, especially so when discounted a couple bucks.

Like most wines from Italy, this one is best served with grub. We paired it with some Italian cold cuts – what’s the Italian word for charcuterie? – though pasta, risotto and most meaty things Italian will do the trick.

NOTE: Also check out Steve Thurlow’s review of this vintage in Wine Access.

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Here’s some recommended reading on the wines and wine regions of Italy.

   

Oct22

Best of the Vinos at Cornucopia

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Best of the Vinos at Cornucopia

A couple years back we partnered with the filmmaking wizardry of director and sfx guru Chad Costen and entered a fun video for the 2011 Vinos film festival. We made the finals and had a ball at the festival itself on the lakefront in Osoyoos where the wine flowed and the on-the-house film snacks were supreme (who says Twizzlers and Cab can’t go together?). A year later Mr. Costen worked with another filmmaker and went on to win the 2012 Vinos.

Now these and the best of the Vinos wine films from the past 4 years, presented by Wines of British Columbia, are coming to Whistler’s Cornucopia. More information about the event and to get your tickets here.

But if you can’t make it to Whistler, we’re linking up Mr. Costen’s two videos here. This first one is the video we partnered on, and which we completed in 72 hours!

And here’s a hilarious video about British Columbia wine that Chad was cinematographer on, and which was the first place winner at the 2012 Vinos Wine Film Festival in Osoyoos, Canada.

Oct18

Le Vieux Pin & La Stella’s Big Reds

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Le Vieux Pin & La Stella’s Big Reds

Le Vieux Pin and La Stella, sister wineries from the Okanagan valley in British Columbia, Canada are known for capturing an essence of old-world winemaking in the new world. I’ve made an acquaintance with their bounty from time to time, most recently in 2011, when I tasted some Le Vieux Pin’s wines after they had recently uprooted Pinot Noir vines from the vineyard and replaced it with Syrah. I was thoroughly impressed with the Syrah takeover (here are my tasting notes from that time).

So I was delighted and curious when I was invited to sample their two new limited release wines, the Le Vieux Pin Retouche 2009 and La Stella’s Maestoso 2009 as well as La Stella’s La Sophia 2009.

First up was the Le Vieux Pin Retouche 2009, a “hermitaged” Bordeaux. If that term catches you off-guard, here’s the skinny: in the 18th and 19th century, some Bordeaux winemakers added Syrah – at times from the famous vineyards in Hermitage – to their wines to add roundness and comfort.  For example, in 1775 Chateau Lafite‘s Cab was blended with Hermitage and was noted as one of the greatest wines of its day. With Retouche (the name itself is an homage to this practise that was kept quiet back then), Le Vieux Pin have found a suitable balance of just enough Syrah that it brings out the best of the Cabernet but still stays behind the scenes.

My notes on the ’09 Retouche: Velvet smooth with aromas of blackberries and smoke in a subtle old-world manner. Tannins that have sufficient kick without knocking you off your stool. Big, bold finish. The Retouche is definitely still young and best saved for a couple years down the road.

Maestoso 2009 (100% Merlot) is La Stella’s flagship wine, and what an impressive one she is! The 2009 growing-season was especially kind in the south Okanagan and the winemaking team at Le Vieux Pin have done a splendid job bringing it to bottle.

My notes on the ’09 Maestoso: Deep and dark in the glass. Delectably sweet raspberries and blueberries mingling with spice and a hint of rustic, meaty fattiness.  An elegant, pleasant finish. A fine example of Merlot done right in the Okanagan.

The La Stella La Sophia 2009, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine, which is a rarity in the Okanagan and a wine which the winery makes in years it makes sense. There were only 48 cases produced from this vintage (that’s 2 barrels for you math geeks) so availability is very limited

My notes on the ’09 La Sophia: Dominated by candied cherry that was truly unique and interesting in a very good way. Hints of liquorice, building up through the finish. Tannins that take no prisoners.

The folks at Le Vieux Pin were also nice enough to set up a horizontal tasting of Viogniers and Rhone-style white blends from across the globe to taste against their “Ava”s but more on that a little later.

Till then, keep on sipping and swirling!

 

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For more on wines from the Okanagan valley, these are the best books I know.

   

Oct17

Terra Blanca Winery

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Terra Blanca Winery

This summer on our winding way through the Yakima Valley, we had unfortunately bad timing around Red Mountain and were only able to make it to Terra Blanca, an impressive and inspiring winery looking down on the valley.

All the wines we tasted are from the Terra Blanca Estate Vineyard. We tweeted our tasting notes earlier this week, and here are those notes:

2007 Signature Series Block 8 Syrah – a powerhouse dominated by cherries and cranberries, toasty oak bringing up the rear. A fine example of Red Mountain’s character. What a year for Syrah in this growing region! Impressively, this wine was double Godl Medal winner at the Seattle Wine Awards and I can see why!

2008 ONYX – Dark fruits and cherry. Satiny smooth. Solid tannins and good acidity. A hint of the oak monster mucking about. Good quality-price ratio. The ONYX, a Seattle Wine Awards Gold Medal winner, is winemaker Keith Pilgrim’s signature Bordeaux blend, which the winery says is a snapshot of the vineyard.

2008 Signature Series Mourvedre (91% Mourvedre / 9% Syrah) – Fruit that is almost balsamic. Impressive tannins not for the timid, Great balance. This is my kind of wine!

2008 Block 5 Chardonnay – crisp red apples and lovely spiciness supported by the  toastiness of oak. Great price point. Highly recommended!

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To get to know Washington wines, these are good reads!